Gastroguía de Valencia: what to eat in "the city of flowers, light and love" (and what restaurants you should not miss)

The Valencian Community has been creating an authentic gastronomic revolution for almost a decade two benchmarks fundamental: the capital of Turia and the Alicante region of the Marina Alta. This territory, which was once known almost exclusively for paella and beach tourism, actually has a very rich and varied culinary tradition.

Specifically, the city of Valencia is a hotbed of new talents; an idyllic destination for lovers of good food, who will find top-notch restaurants and taverns, but with more content prices than we can find in Madrid or Barcelona.

Direct to the Paladar Gastroguía de Córdoba: what to eat in the city of the caliphs (and what restaurants you should not miss)

The five most typical dishes of Valencian cuisine (apart from paella)

The Huerta tradition of Valencia, its marine culture and the proximity of the river waters of the Albufera - where rice is also grown from very popular varieties such as Bomba, Senia and Albufera - explain the origin of most of the typical dishes of the region.

The subsistence kitchen that was practiced in these lands in the past has given rise to recipes such as the all i pebre, the arròs amb fessols i naps or la espardenyà, claimed today for its enormous gastronomic value. These are some of them:

Titaina

It looks like a ratatouille, but it is not. This typical dish of the Cabanyal-Cañamelar neighborhood is the first cousin of another Valencian classic: el esgarraet. In this case, pine nuts and pine nuts are added to the tomato sauce, roasted red pepper, garlic and virgin olive oil tuna belly tuna (also known as tonyina de sorra). It is a perfect combination of the garden with the sea. In addition, it is easy to prepare and very versatile: it can be consumed both hot and cold, and it is common to accompany it with a loaf of bread, or as a filling of sandwiches and dumplings.

There i pebre

The Spanish translation of there i pebre it's "garlic and paprika", although in reality its main ingredient is eel. This traditional dish is pure interpretation of the landscape; specifically, that of the Albufera of Valencia. This lagoon, protected as a Natural Park, has always been a breeding place for this species. Already in his novels of the early twentieth century, Blasco Ibáñez talked about how the humble people of the area used this elongated body fish as a protein for a wide variety of dishes, since at that time it was a very abundant and affordable product.

The all i pebre works as an accompaniment sauce or as a “dipping” lid, characterized by unctuousness and sweet notes and intense that this river fish with gelatinous skin contributes. Eel and potatoes are cooked chopped to increase the density of the broth; It also has garlic, paprika and a touch of chilli. Some people also add some cinnamon or toasted pine nuts.

Clotxins

The bivalve king of the Valencian coast. It is smaller, more silky and finer in texture than the Galician mussel or the Delta del Ebro. According to the popular saying, the clotiny season covers every month without “r”; that is, from May to August. Therefore, if you visit Valencia in spring and summer you will find this product in all kinds of restaurants and bars. Usually consumed in its simplest version: steamed, with lemon and the occasional chilli pepper.

Arròs amb fessols i naps

A little known dish outside this autonomous community, but sacred to the “Valencians of pure strain”. The arròs amb fessols i naps is a sweet bean and turnip which is usually consumed during the winter months. It is a very strong and tasty spoon dish, since its main ingredients come from pork (ear, nose, bacon, handyman). Its origin dates back centuries, when this variety of rice was cooked in large pots in the middle of the street in the village festivities to distribute the rations among people with less resources.

Sang amb ceba

A stew of those that you need a good loaf of bread because the sauce is almost better than the blood. Before it was frequent to cook it, nowadays it is more difficult to obtain it because it is not sold in supermarkets but I have taken advantage of that I have gone to Teulada to #carniceriadomingo and I have not been able to resist Ingredients Pork blood, I have put half an kilo, an onion, About 200 grams of crushed tomato, half a glass of water, pepper, bay leaf, oregano, garlic, parsley, oil and salt. Optionally you can put a chili pepper but I do not put it because we do not like spicy. Sauté the onion, then the tomato, add spices, chopped blood, water, and a chopped garlic and parsley. Let simmer for half an hour, stirring occasionally. #sangreconcebolla #sangambceba #cocinamediterranea #recetatradicional #cocinacasera #cocinaybordaconmaria

It is not a dish suitable for all palates, but it should certainly be included in any selection of traditional recipes from the Mediterranean coast (Balearic Islands, Catalonia and Valencian Community). The sang amb ceba is cooked with boiled bird blood (usually chicken, but it can also come from lamb or pork), which is onions and seasoned with condiments such as paprika or herbs.

Tapas bars and portions

Tasca Angel

A narrow place chaired by one of the most demanded bars in the Carmen neighborhood From Valencia. Tasca Ángel's tapas menu is a party: homemade garlic grocer, "raw" beach sepia (that is, in its ink); there i pebre; calluses; kidneys; snails; lleterola (lamb gizzards of very fine fat), etc. But there is a dish that one cannot miss: the grilled sardine tenderloins. Very fresh, clean of thorns and watered with an oil, garlic and parsley sauce as a touch of grace.

Calle de la Purísima, 1

Rausell

Great Sepionet in Rausell, Valencia

This bar-restaurant is not located on a bright or striking street. The foreigner will not fall here by chance. However, this family business is a temple of fresh produce and one of the bastions of that bar culture that here is scarce (and that we both envy cities like Madrid or Granada).

There is no Valencian gourmet who does not venerate this place, where nothing fails: from the Russian salad to the red shrimp; from the ortiguillas to the sepionets.

Angel Guimerá, 61

Ricardo Bar

Navajas and Chipi Chipi chiiiipirones # españa # españasolohayuna #mariscos

Showcases with splendid still lifes of fish market products, a good technique with the iron and… slightly higher prices. With everything, still one of the favorite tapas bars Valencians of good food. Despite the breadth of the premises - two large rooms and a terrace - and its somewhat peripheral location, in the Ricardo bar it is difficult to find a table at the first. There must be a reason.

Dr Zamenhof, 16

Mountain House

Founded in 1836 in one of the main streets of the sailor district of El Cabanyal, Casa Montaña is one of the most traditional taverns in Valencia. Everything inside - the large barrels, the marble bar, the high tables, the tiles - refer us to the commitment of its owner, Emilio, with tradition. The letter, on the other hand, transmits its obsession with product quality. Casa Montaña is a necessary stop for lovers of good wine - its winery is the seventh heaven for the most sophisticated winemakers.

To eat, we recommend the Cantabrian campaign anchovies; rainfed potatoes from the Universal Mountains (which are a very different version of Madrid, but equally exquisite); the stewed michirones, the ajoarriero and the Mediterranean bluefin tuna marinated in seven spices. Of course, the quality, inevitably, is reflected in the ticket.

Josep Benlliure, 69

The Pilareta

Located in the heart of the old town, this wooden-clad tavern illuminated with modernist pendant lamps is subject to a tourist pilgrimage that does not cease any day of the week. Once you get “get strong” in the bar or in one of its funny liliputian coffee tables, your thing is to start with a ration of clótxina Valencian Following the protocol, the shells are discarded in the row of buckets placed at the foot of the bar.

Calle del Moro Zeid, 13

Restaurants where to eat well for less than 35 euros

La Tasqueta del Mercat

Manage your reservation C Maestro Aguilar, 2 633 28 51 55 C Cádiz, 90 673 813 171

A bright, cozy and informal restaurant, where you eat great for less than 25 euros. It is also one of the busiest in Ruzafa, a "bohemian" neighborhood packed with bars and terraces. Here you find many Mediterranean classics, which always give a personal touch. We recommend the Guitxan Russian salad; cod fritters; beer coca with pesto, tomato and anchovy from the Cantabrian; the cheek with handyman juice to the touch of curry and any of the rice that they propose in the noon menu.

Carrer Mestre Aguilar, 2.

Pelayo Gastro Trinquet

Grilled polp amb cremós de moniato Also podem anomenar-ho cremós de felicitat, moniato millor est the plat

One of the most peculiar restaurants in the city. Share space with the "Trinquet de Pelayo", one of the few courts where the "Valencian pilot" is still practiced. Where before there was a simple bar to snack something between games, now we see a original themed restaurant in which everything refers to this traditional sport.

The letter is consecrated to Mediterranean cuisine and fresh produce and native. Highly recommended the titaina, the sang amb ceba, the sea bass in suquet of red shrimp, the grilled octopus or the black and white gyozas (which is what the combination of sausage and black pudding is called in Levantine lands). If you arrive before 12 noon, there is also service esmorzarets.

Pelayo Street, 6

Anyora

There are dishes that should not be explained too much. We could talk about its delicacy, its harmonious flavor ... But this new hit by Anyora is emotional or not with you, rabbit kidneys to sherry with shells. Novelty.

Anyora is a very special winery, whose foundational objective is the recovery of traditional Valencian dishes, many of them in danger of extinction. Here, the simplicity and quality of raw materials are worshiped. Highly recommended the lunch menu, which costs 13.50 euros and includes dishes such as figatell or "Valencian hamburger", which is made with lean bacon and liver and is wrapped with the telilla that in Castilian is known as edito, and "mantellina" in the regions of Safor and Marina Alta.

Other interesting references to delve into the depths of the native recipe book: filled with garlic, lemon with salt and baked chicken juice or rabbit kidneys onions with Jeréz and shells.

Vicente Gallart, 15

High price restaurants

Live to the Palate In the garden with Ricard Camarena: "With organic farming has happened as with creative cuisine, we have abused"

Ricard Camarena

Slightly spicy orange, eucalyptus and chervil salad. (2013) This is the first dessert in which we worship the product there is very little manipulation. Treasures fresh, spicy and herbaceous nuances. Slightly spicy orange, eucalyptus and chervil salad (2013) #ricardcamarenarestaurant #librocaldos #ricardcamarena #michelin #valencia

The trajectory of Ricard Camarena took a huge pole vault last year with the transfer of its headquarters to the Bombas Gens cultural space, which has already become an oasis of enjoyment for art and gastronomy. His gastronomic speech continues deeply rooted in the garden -Your creations are a feast of colors, textures and flavors of the earth, always recognizable- and the fish market. This restaurant, recognized with two Michelin stars and three Repsol Suns, is an example of creativity without petulance.

Burjassot Avenue, 54

Apicius

As Miguel Ayuso told Live at the Palate a few months ago, Apicius is one of the most interesting restaurants in the city. His cook, Enrique Medina, practices here a kitchen always based on seasonal produce, with large doses of ingenuity and a refined techniqueto. They are experts in monographic menus, which are a wonderful invention to investigate in depth the possibilities of a single raw material: in autumn-winter, that of black truffle; in spring, the white asparagus of Tudela; in summer, Bluefin bluefin tuna ...

Eolo Street, 7

The Poblet

Rice variety Sénia of seaweed and morralets with sea nettle emulsion and its "socarrat" #underpleasure #therealfoodporn #arrozdevalencia #socarrat #estrellamichelin #elpoblet #saboramar # mediterranean #quiquedacosta #luisvalls

The brilliance and experience of Quique Dacosta, combined with the overflowing creativity and know-how of chef Luis Valls. The Poblet is an indispensable reference point for those who want to leave the gastronomic feast without braking. This is a fun and exciting restaurant in which nothing, not even rice, will be as you expected.

Calle Correos, 8

Vertical

For many, the restaurant with the best views of the city. Metaphorically and literally, here a tall kitchen under the guidance of the renowned chef Jorge de Andrés. Tasty, elegant and refined market cuisine, which includes exquisite snacks such as the crispy chard and Iberian ham, the oyster beurre blanc and botarga or the red mullet with partridge pickled.

Penthouse Hotel Ilunion, Carrer de Luis García-Berlanga Martí, 19

Direct to the Paladar Horchata de chufa, the "white gold" born in the Valencian orchard

Breakfasts and esmorzarets

Specialty coffee and cardamom braid. You don't deserve less. Happy week! #Lamasbobitavlc #cafedeespecialidad #desayunos #brunch #patacona #ruzafa #salvatierra #beblue #valencia #spain

The capital of Turia has very good options to start the day with energy and a satisfied stomach. One of the most famous is Caramel (Painter Gisbert, 2). This local Ruzafa neighborhood is a must for pastry enthusiasts deli, with the incentive that here the pastry is an interesting mix of Argentina, Spain and Germany. The alfajores, the salted stuffed milk saloons and the "apple strudel" are its main specialties. For those who want to start the day looking at the sea, there is no better option than The prettiest (Paseo de la Patacona, 11). Although it opens continuously throughout the day, its best asset is breakfast, brunch and snacks. The menu includes a large assortment of natural smoothies and milkshakes, tea and coffee, as well as homemade cakes and pastries.

GO FOR MONDAY WITH JOY I HOPE YOU HAVE A GOOD DAY. AND ABOVE ALL A GOOD EASTER WEEK.

Now, if you want to get fully into the Valencian culture, you have to make a place for the typical esmorzaret (or lunch) In any corner of the city you can find bars where every day, from dawn until approximately 12 noon, this popular tradition is worshiped. The thing begins with a ration of olives and another of collaret cacaus (in some places pickles or lupins are also included) and continue immediately with a blunt sandwich accompanied by a beer. The function closes with a carajillo style cremaet. If you have to highlight some bars known for their esmorzarets, we can mention The Pascuala (Dr Lluch, 299); Marvi (Justo and Pastor, 14); The peseta (Christ of Grao, 16), Pergola (Paseo de la Alameda, 1) or Alhambra (Calixto III, 8), where by the way the best potato tortillas in the city are prepared.